BBBB is the core Buttons data. The 19 EE bytes are from the Extension Controller currently connected to the Wii Remote. BBBB is the core Buttons data. The 8 EE bytes are from the Extension Controller currently connected to the Wii Remote. LL specifies the data length, shifted left by three bits. The DD bytes are the speaker data. To fullfill the report length requirements, the data must be padded if it is less than 20 bytes long. Sound data must be sent at the proper rate. The original Wiimotes (RVL-CNT-01) allowed sending commands using SET REPORT (0x52) over the control pipe, instead of using the data pipe; however, this form does not work on the newer RVL-CNT-01-TR, and as such is not recommended.

Games That Utilized Wii MotionPlus - Game Rant Best Games That Utilized Wii MotionPlus - Game Rant

The sync button is hidden under the battery cover. When the Sync button is pressed, the Wii remote will disconnect from whatever it is currently connected to, make itself discoverable, and accept pairing or connection requests for exactly 20 seconds (regardless of how long the button is held down for). bit signed PCM mode works, but when in 8-bit mode the sampling frequency must be made so low that the audio quality is pretty bad. Report 0x19 is used to mute or unmute the speaker, and works identically to report 0x14. 0x04 will mute the speaker, and 0x00 will unmute it. On a virgin Wii Remote, acquired separately (not bundled with a Wii), that has never communicated with any device (except the PC used to dump the memory contents), most of the memory is blank (0x00). However, the first few bytes contain some information:The BCM2042 microcontroller built into the Wii Remote includes a large 108kb on-chip ROM section for storing firmware. If the EEPROM chip really contains code for the BCM2042 then this was probably done to make firmware updates possible, so there might be a way of accessing the other parts of the EEPROM via Bluetooth as well.

Wii Remote Plus (RVL-CNT-01-TR) Connection Guide Wii Remote Plus (RVL-CNT-01-TR) Connection Guide

There are four blue LEDs on the front face of the Wii Remote. During discovery and before initialization, these LEDs blink at a fixed rate. The number of blinking LEDs is proportional to the battery voltage, indicating battery charge (all four are lit for newly charged batteries, and only the first is lit if the batteries are low and should be replaced).The Wii Remote includes a rumble feature, which is implemented as a small motor attached to an off-center weight. It will cause the controller to vibrate when activated. The fake has the original Wii Remote model number RVL-003. Also look at the left and right edges of these accessory connectors. The fake's metal is bent 90 degrees while the genuine has more of a curved shape for a more gradual retraction on an accessory's pins on insertion. The Wii Remote includes a three-axis linear accelerometer located on the top suface of the circuit board, slightly left of the large A button. The integrated circuit is the ADXL330 ( data sheet), manufactured by Analog Devices. This device is physically rated to measure accelerations over a range of at least +/- 3g with 10% sensitivity. Before I get to that smoking gun, here is the other fake's label. As I mentioned above, this label was applied very unevenly. The inside of the battery doors are also different. On a genuine there are numbers stamped on that box near the top. On the fake, the box is empty. Also, look at the rings from the injection mold on the real one's battery door. It's hard to see in this picture but there are 3 rows of 5 of these rings for a total of 15. On the fake there are only 3 of these rings running down the center. The fake has sharp bits of excess plastic left behind while the genuine rings are much smoother. Above, 4 lights are flashing on the genuine Wiimote Plus as it tries to connect. During the same process, the fake only flashes the first 3. When it's controller 4, the 4th light does come on. Edit: at least the battery indicator works. Oops. Also you may notice that the fake bleeds quite a bit more light than the genuine. Of course that light bleed will happen when comparing a light colored controller to a dark one. On the fake you can see the imperfections of the LED's below as if you're looking at the lights through a transparent window, but on a genuine these lights are beneath a bit of frosted translucent plastic so you do not get an uneven glare from various angles of an LED bulb.